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COCHIN IN THE 1930’S
The early township of Ernakulam was controlled by 5 Nair feudal chieftains who had suzerainty over the famous Siva Temple and who fought between themselves for control of the temple. Many wars were fought in Ernakulam during the Portuguese period and the last war between Zamorin and Travancore was fought here in 1726. The township as we see today was established in mid 19th century when new Roads, buildings and commercial houses were laid. Railway came to the town in 1902, municipality in 1910 and electricity in 1939. The town flourished as the seat of the erstwhile Cochin Government for many years till 1949 when Cochin State was merged with Travancore and the capital was shifted to Trivandrum.
The whole conglomerate was a sleepy little village where the sea once embraced even such centrally located places as Kaloor. Canoes cruised along what is now the Mahatma Road. Come monsoon, shoals of fish swam around the entire stretch, even around the St. Albert’s School.
In that period, there were no black topped roads but all covered with red earth and gravel. Every year the municipality undertook repairs in the period December to April and in summer months a municipal truck used to water the roads regularly to keep down the dust. Most of the larger buildings in Ernakulam belonged to the Government or the Palace and the rickshaw was the standard mode of transport of most families. In fact, many families owned one. In British Cochin, almost all the buildings belonged to the British merchant community either as their offices, godowns or bungalows. In fact, the Northern tip of British Cochin had the atmosphere of a cantonment, what with well laid out roads, the colonial bungalows and the club centered around the parade ground.
Government servants, Advocates, Teachers and Doctors were held in great respect and everyone wore a suit with a hat to the office or school/college. One could not see even the clerical staff without at least a coat.
There was no M.G. Road, no bridges to the Island – they came into being in 1940 – and the state band used to play tunes in their colorful costumes twice a week in the band stand at Durbar Hall - since demolished to build a stage for the visiting Russian musical troupe – and the most important events of the town were the Arattu in the Shiva Temple and the Maharaja’s College day both of which were declared as local holidays. To buy anything from a petromax to a match box one had to go to the Broadway and the Railway station was at that end – now defunct Ernakulam Goods Station.
Even during the worst of monsoons there was no water logging in the town but mosquitoes were around even then! - the only thing that has not changed in the town.
This was the atmosphere in which Rotary was brought in 1936.